Nine Nights, One Family: My First Novenas, Christmas, and New Year in Colombia

This December marked my first full holiday season in Colombia. After living in India for 2 years with my wife, Luisa, we moved here only a few weeks before everything began. I knew December would be busy. I did not know it would feel this intense, emotional, and grounding all at once.

After experiencing my first Dia de las Velitas in Colombia, I thought I had already seen the heart of Colombian December. I was wrong.

What followed were nine nights of novenas, a deeply emotional Noche Buena (Christmas Eve), and a New Year’s Eve that lasted until sunrise. This post picks up right where that candlelit beginning left off. ✨

Luisa and I in front of her godmother's Christmas tree

Nine Days, Many Homes

The novenas lasted nine days, and each day felt different. Every night took place in a new home, with a new mix of family members and energy.

We went to three of Luisa’s aunts’ houses, two of her uncles’ homes, one night at our own place, one at her cousin’s house, one at her godmother’s home, and the ninth day became Noche Buena.

Every house had its own rhythm. Some felt quiet and prayer focused. Others felt loud and playful. Food changed every day, but one thing stayed constant. Tutaina tuturumaina played every single night. By the end, it lived rent free in my head! 😅

At the beginning, everything felt exciting. Everything felt new. I wanted to see how it all worked and where each night would take us.

The beautiful view of the Andean mountains from Luisa's tio's house

The Night the Hill Tested Me

One novena night stands out more than the rest.

One of Luisa’s aunts lives high up on a hill. Cars cannot reach her house. Only jeeps can. Guess what, we don't have a jeep. We had to walk.

It had rained the entire day. The path felt steep, dark, and slippery. It was already after sunset, and there were no lights. I wore sneakers with flat soles and zero grip. Halfway up, I was pretty sure I was going slide off at some point lol, and my confidence disappeared.

I wanted to give up and go back, but Luisa and her parents stayed close and helped me every step of the way. Slowly, carefully, we made it to the top. It was worth it.

The food tasted better because of the effort. The laughter felt louder. The view from the house looked unreal. That night taught me something simple. Sometimes belonging requires physical effort too! 💪

Luisa's family toasting on one of the Novena nights

A Novena That Felt Like a Trip

One of the novenas took place at Luisa’s godmother’s house in Armenia, a nearby city. We turned it into a short road trip with her parents.

Because it happened on a weekend and in a different city, we spent more time together. More people joined. More food appeared. More stories came out.

That day felt lighter and more playful. It felt like a break within the routine. It reminded me that traditions adapt to place and people.

The pesebre (nativity scene) at Luisa's madrina's house in Armenia

Noche Buena: Christmas Happens at Night

In Colombia, Christmas happens on the night of December 24th. December 25th stays calm and quiet.

That night, everyone gathered around one massive table. I do not think I have ever sat with that many people for one meal. The pesebre (nativity scene) stood nearby. The Christmas tree glowed, surrounded by gifts.

After dinner, gift opening began. The only small boy in the family clearly won Christmas. He received a bicycle, a Nintendo controller, and everyone’s attention.

Some gifts existed purely to make fun of people. Those gifts caused the loudest laughs! 😂

Gift giving felt new to me. My family in India never practiced Christmas gifting. Buying gifts, wrapping them, and hiding them felt like a whole event on its own.

¡Noche Buena dinnerrrrr!

New Year’s Eve Goes All In

If Christmas felt warm and intimate, New Year’s Eve felt wild and unapologetic.

People gathered around 6 or 7 in the evening. The party did not stop until sunrise. Dancing, food, drinks, games, and old stories filled the night.

This year, the food followed a Venezuelan theme. Luisa’s uncle spent many years in Venezuela, and his wife is Venezuelan.

They proposed hallacas for dinner, an indigenous dish consisting of a corn dough stuffed with meat and veggies folded in plantain leaves.

Because I do not eat meat, I expected to bring my own food. Instead, they made me a vegetarian version.

They said, “All on the bed or all on the floor.” Everyone does things together. Nobody gets left out.

That moment stayed with me! ❤️

A church in Pereira with beautiful reflections

Faith and Fun Living Side by Side

One thing surprised me deeply during this season. Colombians hold strong religious beliefs, yet they also love to party, dance, and stay up all night.

I did not expect those worlds to coexist so naturally.

Faith showed up through prayers, novenas, and rituals. Joy showed up through music, laughter, and chaos. Neither canceled the other.

That balance challenged my assumptions. Things don't always have to be black or white.

Downtown Pereira with Christmas lights

Family Across the Planet

Back in India, my parents did something that touched me deeply.

They put up the small Christmas tree Luisa and I used during our last two years there. They decorated it with lights. My mom baked a plum cake, just like the ones we used to receive from our Christian neighbors growing up.

They celebrated in their own way to make us feel close, even from far away.

That gesture reminded me that intercultural love moves in all directions. 🌍

The mini Christmas tree in India

The plum cake my mom made for Christmas

What Stayed With Me

The moments that stayed with me most had nothing to do with dates or traditions.

Wrapping gifts together. Hiding them from each other. Cooking side by side. Walking hills together. Sharing effort before sharing food.

These holidays taught me that belonging grows through participation, not perfection.

This was my first Colombian holiday season. It will not be my last. And I already know I will never experience December the same way again!🎄

About the author

Aswin Raghav is one half of Masala. He's futuristic, passionate, and calm, hailing from a rather not calm metropolitan city in Tamil Nadu, India. Living for more than 5 years in an intercultural and interreligious relationship with a Colombian 16,000 km away, he has acquired a decent understanding of love, travel, and culture.

In his other life, Aswin has been a National-level Athlete, Marketer, and Sustainability Advocate with a bachelor's degree in Business. Thanks to his business program, he won a US Government scholarship to study Entrepreneurship for a year in the US.

Love, cricket, business plans, and a thousand miles later, he decided to start a community online to share his experience through Masala of Cultures, along with the other half of Masala, Luisa.

Aswin's insights can also be found on other parts of the internet, including NVCC and SSR.